Friday, July 31, 2020

Snow Bound - Yosemite Yahoos



The following photos were taken in early 1998, on the last expedition. Again, it had to be done! 

Yosemite Luminous



Unbalanced Individual

This person is obviously a few degrees from perpendicular.


Snowcraver in Bondage

With a broken ski binding, three and a half miles to reach "civilization," and an 80 pound pack to hoist, there was only one alternative.


Half Dome Mood Swings



Kirkland's contribution to the annual photo essay - 1998. Featuring the

"Cone of Life"

and other wonders.


The cone itself, live and in person!



The Edge

James, don't get too close to the . . . James? JAMES?!


El Cap



Geared UP!

Yer 'umble narrator, burdened with the tools o' the wild. Perhaps I should have left that pound of caviar at home!

Thursday, July 30, 2020

HTML Tutorial

This document is designed to teach the basic codes of HTML. Each one is used only after it is introduced, with the exception of some structural codes at the top, the most critical of which is the TITLE code. Pointers appear along the way - things I've learned - sometimes the hard way. It is not designed to be complete, but includes almost all codes in frequent use! To see the codes, select View - Document Source or the equivalent command on your browser. Better yet, save the file and print it out to see all the codes. Then, as you go down the page, you can see the codes that created each element. HTML is basically an ASCII file (American Standard Code for Information Interchange - the Esperanto of the computer world) with codes in it to provide formatting. Most codes come in pairs, although not all do. Codes are enclosed in the less than/greater than "brackets", and the closing codes have a slash as the first character inside the brackets. Many also have a number of attributes which control their behavior or appearance. At the top and bottom of the document are the HTML and /HTML codes. The document itself is divided into two sections, the HEAD and BODY. The HEAD contains the TITLE code, and may also include META codes which describe the document. The BODY code can define the text colors, background color, and background images - here I used a color (yellow), although one could specify a background image - e.g., BACKGROUND="image.jpg". Although I have formatted this text nicely in ASCII, the browser removed any hard returns, replacing them with one space. It also took out multiple spaces and replaced them with one space. This allows HTML to be formatted and word-wrapped correctly regardless of the size of the window, the browser used, screen resolution, and all of the variables that could affect its appearance on the reader's end. It does make for long introductory paragraphs on a document of this kind, though.

Headings

Headings use the HTML code H, followed by a number. There are six levels of headings. Headings appear on a line of their own and have a gap above and below. They are usually bold, depending on the browser. Headings control much formatting automatically. If you want other codes to work, such as italics, put them inside the heading codes.

First Heading

Second Heading

Third Heading

Fourth Heading

Fifth Heading
Sixth Heading

Paragraphs

Paragraphs use the HTML code P. Often, the closing code is left out. The P code forces a line break (Carriage Return) and puts a gap in the document at that location.

There is a paragraph code just above this sentence.

Breaks or Carriage Returns

To force a Carriage Return without the gap, use the BR Code.
This is useful in such things as addresses:
Graduate School, USDA
120 Howard Street, Suite 780
San Francisco, CA 94105

Pre-formatted Text

Of course, if you want to put in gaps, carriage returns, and the like and NOT have the browser do its thing, you can use the HTML code PRE.

PRE specifies       that the         text is "preformatted"
       It allows you to           plug in
              gaps and carriage returns where
  you want.  I just don't like the font used 
      and it's not too hard to send text off the right edge. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah! 

Other Formatting Codes

Here is a list of some other special formatting codes which change the appearance of text.

U - This is U text
BIG - This is BIG text
BLINK - This is BLINK text (Use sparingly, if at all, please!)
CITE - This is CITE text
CODE - This is CODE text
DFN - This is DFN text
KBD - This is KBD text
SAMP - This is SAMP text
SMALL - This is SMALL text
STRIKE - This is STRIKE text
SUB - This is SUB text
SUP - This is SUP text
TT - This is TT text

Fonts

Changing the SIZE

The FONT code allows you to change several things. The type of change is controlled by attributes. Attributes follow the code name and are typically equal to something. They are often enclosed in quotes. One attribute of the FONT code will change the size of text.
FONT SIZE=1
FONT SIZE=2
FONT SIZE=3 (This is the default)
FONT SIZE=4
FONT SIZE=5
FONT SIZE=6
FONT SIZE=7

You can also specify the FONT SIZE change as a relative value (+2, -1, etc.) These numbers are not additive, but always alter the base font size, typically 3.
FONT SIZE=+2FONT SIZE=-1

The BASEFONT code allows you to decide the default:
BASEFONT SIZE=4 creates a larger default size.
BASEFONT SIZE=3 returns the setting back to "normal."

Font Colors

The FONT code can also be used to change the color of text. Colors are specified in HTML with the pound sign, followed by three values specifying the amount of Red, Green, and Blue to use. To simplify things, the numbers can range from 0 to 255, specified in Hexadecimal (base 16). To demonstrate this arcane concept, here is text in #000000 (black)#ff0000 (red)#00ff00 (green)#0000ff (blue), and finally, #ffffff (white).

Fortunately, somebody realized that using hexadecimal required some amongst us to remove shoes and socks in order to calculate such values, having run out of fingers. Though not supported by ALL browsers, we can now try to get away with:
FONT COLOR=white,
FONT COLOR=red,
FONT COLOR=yellow,
FONT COLOR=green,
FONT COLOR=blue,
FONT COLOR=purple,
FONT COLOR=gray,
FONT COLOR=black,
and even the exotics -
FONT COLOR=aqua,
FONT COLOR=fuchsia,
FONT COLOR=lime,
FONT COLOR=maroon,
FONT COLOR=navy,
FONT COLOR=olive,
FONT COLOR=silver, (silver, which may also be the background color,) and
FONT COLOR=teal.

But what I meant by FONTS was . . .

OK, you might be able to specify a font or list of fonts. If the browser supports this feature, and if it can find them on the computer, it will use them. Otherwise, it will use whatever it pleases. Take that, FONT mavens.

Some examples you may have on your computer:
FONT FACE="arial",
FONT FACE="futura",
FONT FACE="modern", or
FONT FACE="courier".

Horizontal Rules

To insert a line across the document, use the HR code.


This comes in several flavors (attributes), not available with all browsers:
SIZE=10


WIDTH=60%


NOSHADE



Lists

Ordered and Unordered

Lists can be ordered (the OL code) or unordered (UL.) These codes can also be used to indent text. Each item in the list is preceded by the LI (List Items) code, which can be unpaired (used without the closing code.)

  1. Here is text which is indented.
  2. The first step in an Ordered List.
  3. The next step.
  4. The last step.

Below is an unordered list. So far we've covered:

  • Structural tags (HTML, HEAD, TITLE, BODY)
  • Headings (H1 - H6)
  • Paragraphs (P) and Breaks (BR)
  • Emphasis (I or EM) and Strong Emphasis (B or STRONG)
  • PRE and other text formatting codes
  • FONTs
  • Lists (OL and UL) and List Items (LI)


Outlines

Lists can be included in lists, as in the following outline.

  • This is list level 1.
    • This is list level 2.
      • This is list level 3.
    • Back to 2.
  • Back to 1.


Changing the Appearance of Lists

Ordered Lists are numeric by default, but can be of various TYPES (A, a, I, i.)

TYPE=A

  1. Item 1
  2. Item 2

TYPE=a

  1. Item 1
  2. Item 2

TYPE=I

  1. Item 1
  2. Item 2

TYPE=i

  1. Item 1
  2. Item 2

Unordered lists also come in several TYPES, such as TYPE=disc, circle, or square.

TYPE=disc

  • Item 1
  • Item 2

TYPE=circle

  • Item 1
  • Item 2

TYPE=square

  • Item 1
  • Item 2


Definition Lists

This type of list is used to define terms. It consists of the Definition List (DL) code, and Definition Terms (DT) followed by Definition Descriptions (DD.)

DT is used for the Definition Term
DD is used for the Definition Description. This code can also be used to indent the first line of a paragraph.

This shows the Definition Define code (DD) used to indent the first line of a paragraph. Use the UL or OL codes to keep the indent going for the rest of the document, or until a code is encountered to turn indent off. This use of these codes is not "official."


Creating Margins

You can "double indent" with BLOCKQUOTE.
This text has been indented on both sides of the document with the BLOCKQUOTE code. It is one way to give a web page margins. It also performs some spacing similar to the P code.

Links

Links can surround graphics, text, or both. Links create "clickable" areas that move you to a different place in the current document or retrieve a document, graphic, or file.

Local Links

Links use the Anchor code (A). To create a place to go to (a target) use the NAME attribute:
A NAME="XYZ" (Anchor XYZ is located here)

To create a link to this anchor name, use the Hypertext Reference (HREF) attribute. The link below specifies A HREF="#XYZ". NOTE: These codes are CaSe sensitive! Between the beginning and ending codes, you must place either text or a graphic to serve as the "clickable" link.
This is a link to the location above!

FYI: Frequently, a page has a set of local links at the top. If one is selected and the page has not yet loaded that anchor name yet, the link takes you to the top of the page.

To create a link to another document on your site, just use the document name. You can also include an anchor name, separated from the filename by the pound sign. The link below reads:
A HREF="index.html#ABC"
If there is no such anchor name, the link goes to the top of the document.

Link to index.html, anchor name ABC.


Linking to Remote Files

You can create a link to anything on the Internet! You must specify the full Universal Resource Locator (URL) in the HREF attribute. For instance, to go to the catalog search page on the Graduate School, USDA Web Site, the following HREF specification is needed:

HREF="http://www.grad.usda.gov/cgi-bin/sb/nav.cgi//?nav=100455"

Here is the full link:
Link to the Graduate School, USDA's on-line catalog search .


Building a Link

The pieces of the link include:
  1. the protocol indicator (http://) which tells the server how to send the file - in this case "Hyper-Text Transfer Protocol." Most web files are sent this way.
  2. the domain name (www.grad.usda.gov) which specifies which server should be contacted. In this case:
    • a world wide web server (www)
    • for the Graduate School (grad)
    • of the U.S. Department of Agriculture (usda),
    • a government (gov) institution.
  3. the subdirectory specification, if needed (/cgi-bin/sb/).
  4. the file name to load (nav.cgi) - this file directs users to other pages, based on a parameter)
  5. the parameter specifying a particular page (//?nav=100455).
  6. an optional anchor name, preceded by the pound sign (not included in this example.)


The "MAILTO:" link

A special link which triggers the sending of an E-Mail on some browsers is the MAILTO.
It appears in the HREF attribute, and looks like:

HREF="MAILTO:Sterling_Bobbitt@grad.usda.gov"

And looks like:

Sterling_Bobbitt@grad.usda.gov


Graphics

Two types of graphics files are used on the World Wide Web:

  1. GIF Files:
    • supported by more browsers,
    • better for line art,
    • crisper display,
    • support interlaced and transparent images (in "89a" format), and
    • can even be animated.
  2. JP(E)G Files:
    • better compression for photographs, although
    • compression results in some loss of detail.


Graphics Attributes

Graphics are included in the document with the IMG code. Attributes include:
  1. The SRC - the file name
  2. ALT - Alternate text to be displayed while graphics load or if they are not loaded*
  3. WIDTH - the width in pixels*
  4. HEIGHT - the height of the graphic in pixels*
  5. ALIGN - TOP, MIDDLE, BOTTOM (LEFT RIGHT supported on newer browsers)
* Always include these attributes!


Aligning Graphics

Celtic Knot ProductionsGraphic with TOP alignment.

Celtic Knot ProductionsGraphic with MIDDLE alignment.

Celtic Knot ProductionsGraphic with BOTTOM alignment.

Celtic Knot ProductionsGraphic with LEFT alignment.

Celtic Knot ProductionsGraphic with RIGHT alignment. - - - - - - - - - ->

Note that with left and right alignments, text wraps around the images. This can cause problems with older browsers, and graphics can overlap or even cause text to disappear underneath images!


Centering Graphics

To center graphics, one needs to use a commonly used code that is not supported on older browsers, CENTER. This is a code of its own (not an attribute), and centers everything (text, graphics, tables, etc. until a /CENTER code comes along. Here is what that looks like with a graphic and some text:

Celtic Knot Productions
Graphic and text in between CENTER codes


Graphics Links

Here graphics are selected as links. The second graphic includes the BORDER=0 attribute.
Celtic Knot ProductionsGraphic Link.

Celtic Knot ProductionsGraphic Link with BORDER=0.

I often place tables around graphics to handle captions and get better control of placement. This is one of those areas it is good to check with different browsers, setting the window to different widths, and even looking at the results on different monitors. Graphics can be unpredictable!


Image Maps

Image maps allow graphics to contain links to multiple locations. There are several different ways to make this happen, involving either Web server programs, a large graphic consisting of smaller image "pieces", or what is known as a "client-side" image map. This page will demonstrate the latter.

First, let's create two targets for different links:

WHITE TARGET

WHITE: You clicked on the White Background







BLACK TARGET

BLACK: You clicked on the Black Background

Then, load the image, including the USEMAP attribute:

Image Map

ALWAYS provide text links nearby to accomplish the same purpose, for those using paleolithic browsers which don't understand image maps!!!

WHITE * BLACK *

Then, define the map with the AREA code, which includes SHAPE attributes, COORDS coordinates, and finally a target (HREF) to go to. Coordinates are specified by X,Y coordinates and there are several programs available, such as MapThis or MapEdit, to help you come up with coordinates. Some image editors also display X,Y coordinates as the mouse moves over the image.


Tables

Tables are used extensively on the World Wide Web, one of the reasons being the control they provide over placement of text and images. Almost any page that looks like it has columns of text is formatted with tables.

Table cells can contain text or graphics. Each is like a small page in the way that it can be formatted.

The table begins with the TABLE code (bet you figured that out already.) The table is specified row by row, cell by cell across the rows. Rows begin with TR codes, and cells begin with either TH (Table Header) or TD (Table Data.) Table Headers are centered and bolded by default, while Table Data is left justified and appears in plain text.

A Simple Table

Header 1Header 2Header 3
Data 1Data 2Data 3
Data 4Data 5Data 6


Table Elaborations

This is CAPTION Text
TABLE attributesBegins and ends the table
BORDER=some # of pixelsCreates a border of # pixels width
ALIGN=LEFT/CENTER/RIGHTControls horizontal placement of table
CELLPADDING=some # of pixelsSets spacing around cell contents
CELLSPACING=some # of pixelsSets spacing between cells
WIDTH=# of pixels or % of windowSets width of table (percent a much better option!)
BGCOLOR=#hhhhhhRGB hexadecimal specifications for background color
CAPTION attributesSurrounds caption text
ALIGN=TOP or BOTTOMDictates placement of CAPTION text
TH attributesTable Header Cells
BGCOLOR=#hhhhhhRGB hexadecimal specifications for background color
ROWSPAN=some #Number of Rows for cell to span
COLSPAN=some #Number of Columns for cell to span
ALIGN=LEFT/CENTER/RIGHTJustification of cell contents
VALIGN=TOP/CENTER/BOTTOMVertical alignment of cell contents
WIDTH=# of pixels or % of windowSets width of column (percent a much better option!)
TD attributesTable Data Contents
BGCOLOR=#hhhhhhRGB hexadecimal specifications for background color
ROWSPAN=some #Number of Rows for cell to span
COLSPAN=some #Number of Columns for cell to span
ALIGN=LEFT/CENTER/RIGHTJustification of cell contents
VALIGN=TOP/CENTER/BOTTOMVertical alignment of cell contents
WIDTH=# of pixels or % of windowSets width of column (percent a much better option!)
TR attributesTable Row Contents
BGCOLOR=#hhhhhhRGB hexadecimal specifications for background color
ALIGN=LEFT/CENTER/RIGHTJustification of cell contents in row
VALIGN=TOP/CENTER/BOTTOMVertical alignment of cell contents in row

Whew!


Forms

Forms allow you to collect input from the folks visiting your site and process it using a program. It may be as straightforward as E-Mailing you, as is shown in this example, or as complicated as generating "On-the-fly" web pages which are then presented based on the selections made.

Different servers handle such forms in different ways. Talk with the Internet Service Provider (ISP) to see what can be done with the information from your forms.

Form Design

Start with the FORM code. It has two attributes, the ACTION (what program to run when the form is submitted) and the METHOD (either GET or POST. Most forms use POST - check with your ISP!)

Here we will use:
ACTION="/cgi-bin/gen-form?someuser" and
METHOD="POST"


Then define your INPUT codes. All input fields need a NAME to identify them to the program. Here we will get the "EMAIL" variable. The attributes available differ based on the TYPE attribute. Here is a TYPE="TEXT" code with attributes SIZE=40 and MAXLENGTH=120.

EMAIL: 

A similar type is PASSWORD, which only displays asterisks when text is entered.

You can create checkboxes, allowing people to select several choices or turn a feature on or off. This INPUT code has the attributes:
TYPE="CHECKBOX" NAME="TV" CHECKED

TV Owner: 

And one more, without the CHECKED attribute:

Computer Owner: 

Radio buttons (TYPE=RADIO) can also be checked, but only one check per group. The NAME attribute must be identical for each group. A VALUE attribute marks the differences between buttons. Here is such a group:

 Male
 Female
 Unsure

If you want your respondent to pick from a list, use the SELECT code. Attributes include SIZE (how many options are visible) and MULTIPLE, for the case where multiple selections are appropriate. The list to choose from is defined by OPTION codes. They may have the attribute SELECTED.

Employer: 

You can collect paragraphs, special instructions, or the Gettysburg Address using the TEXTAREA code. Attributes include COLS (the number of columns), ROWS (the number of rows), and, of course, a NAME. There is a WRAP attribute which can be set to OFF, VIRTUAL, or PHYSICAL. The last two wrap text on the screen, PHYSICAL sends text to the server with the wraps, and OFF lets you type in a straight line like a Kansas corn row (which makes me a little crazy.)

Finally, the forms are processed with two INPUT codes which create buttons. The TYPE is either "SUBMIT" or "RESET", which clears the form. A VALUE attribute can be used to change the text emblazoned on your buttons.

 


Please feel free to send me comments, suggestions, criticism, etc. My aim is to make this an easy (and quick) way to learn HTML.

Pocket Philosophy



Sterling Bobbitt


Dawn thoughts come creeping, unbidden. Life examined, minutia mulled. Make use of this time to dream, scheme.

Associate with joy. Find people that experience great joy in their life and emulate them, celebrating the spirit they bring to life. My parents were blessedly two such.

Search for forgiveness in yourself - support a "National Day of Forgiving" that seeks to forgive those we can and at least seek a reconciliation with those that we can't.

Bitterness and hatred poison their bearer; life is not long enough to carry these burdens.

Ask for the best in people, and work to help them meet that expectation. Give them a reason to want to succeed, even if it is only the joy of doing a job well. Allow them the pride in that accomplishment, and acknowledge it.

If you are fortunate enough to have the opportunity to raise a child, make that an opportunity to make the world a better place. Teach him or her to respect the rights of others and to press the boundary of their knowledge forward on a daily basis. Leave a legacy of learning. Read to them!!! There are very few excuses to shirk this responsibility.

Prioritize and execute. Too often we find ourselves side-tracked by the meaningless. Lay out a game plan with goals, and work to achieve them. Find a balance between personal gratification and service to others. Ask yourself "What have I contributed lately?" If the answer is not readily apparent, get busy.

Be ready to die tomorrow. Left something undone? Affairs not in order? Make it so, or realize that it just really isn't that important to you. Our grasp on this planet, at least our personal one, is tenuous. Don't worry about that fact, just reconcile to it and celebrate the day.

I have been fortunate - very fortunate. While not unalloyed, my life has been sweet beyond belief. I recognize and appreciate that fact, even though by most measures and expectancy charts, I have a long way to go. Doesn't matter - I'm ready today. Not jumping on any bandwagon or drinking any hemlock, mind you - but ready.

Have a wake when I am gone. Pluck out and donate any of those parts of my body that could help anyone live a better life, then cremate the rest. Scatter my ashes in a brook that turns into a river that flows into the sea. Play "I Shall be Released" by the Jerry Garcia Band (Arista Records - 07822-18690-2 9:26) at the wake, dance and sing, laugh and leer, drink and "smoke 'em if you got 'em," and hug my children for me. Weep elsewhere. Know that while I may have had regrets, they were few and FAR between. I'm inconsequential - we are everything.

What does matter is that we take care of this planet. It will outlast us! Poison it as little as possible. While not a "Chemophobe," I do worry about the legacy of waste, pollution, and foul air, soil, and water. We all need to tread lightly until the day when we, too, "shall be released."

Reduce, reuse, recycle!


This page made from 100% Recycled Electrons.

My Friend, the Bug



Sterling Bobbitt


When I was young and foolish, I had a younger sister who wanted me to tell stories, particularly before bedtime. Occasionally I would oblige, but at times the demands of this young 'un tested my patience (as I WAS young and foolish) and I was tempted to cut corners.

Well, one evening this was particularly the case, and as I looked into her pleading eyes, I quickly crafted a tale . . .

There was this insect, kind of a beetle, see, and one day he decided to go out and see the world, and he started out, but there was this highway, see, and he tried to cross it, but he didn't get far, as there was this truck, see, and he didn't look both ways, and all of a sudden all he could see was this BIG tire, and he became one-dimensional. In other words, he was squished! - The End - Goodnight.

I headed toward the door, a rapid cut and run, guilt prickling the back of my neck but not really penetrating too deep. I was frozen by a sniffle. Then, a whimper. She was bummed! In the 23 seconds that the story had lasted, she had begun to relate to this beetle, of all things!

Being young and foolish, but not heartless, I returned and carefully explained the truly mystical character of this noble beetle, a beetle among beetles, who in the instant that the truck tire rolled over his tough little exoskeleton managed (somehow - details were sketchy) to penetrate the tire tread and hitch a ride to magnificent places the world over.

"No, dear, the tire didn't go flat. Must you ask so many questions?"

Thus are legends born. There were many more tales surrounding this noble insect, and finishing him off was never again even considered.

At one point, I gave her a carved wooden replica (made for some theatrical production at school) to play with. Years later, when I least expected it, I received a T-shirt for my birthday. There, emblazoned on its chest, was:




Laura Bobbitt Kuhn (also known as Dear Sister II)


Snow Bound



Sterling Bobbitt

What's the reason perfectly sane people with warm soft beds leave such luxury to sleep in snow banks and ski through the mountains? I'll try to explain this aberration. I love being out in the wilderness, any time of the year. The mountain peaks, the forest and all of its critters, the rocky crags and brooks; this is the holiest of holies, my ultimate place of worship. But . . . in the summer, there are bugs, and dust, and muddy trails, and it's hot and just not terribly pleasant to drag a pack around. 

In winter, all of this changes. The days are radiant, with the reflection off the snow doubling the dazzle. The peaks are draped in snow, revealing the subtle folds of the terrain. The bugs buzz off, the dust is hidden, the mud freezes and is buried under a thick blanket of snow and ice. The air is clear, the nights luminous with stars, the stillness a physical presence. Traveling cross-country in summer is work - in the winter you can glide across the terrain. There is no better time of the year to explore the high Sierras, but - Shhhh! Don't tell anyone!

Latest expedition photos

Table of Contents

  1. Toe
  2. Foot
  3. Boots
  4. Bindings
  5. Heel Locks
  6. Skis
  7. Poles
  8. Gaiters
  9. Ski Pants
  10. Underwear
  11. Jacket
  12. Gloves
  13. Scarf
  14. Hats
  15. Sun Things
  16. Sweater/Coat
  17. Sleeping
  18. Eating
  19. Packing It Up
  20. Liquid Refreshments
  21. Safety
  22. Weather
  23. Maps & Compass
  24. Odds & Ends
  25. Snow Caves


Photographs courtesy of James Snowcraver Kirkland

A friend asked recently "What does it take to ski off into the wilderness for a weekend?" Contrary to popular belief, nerves of steel are not a pre-requisite. But some things are. I've decided to go from head-to-toe (actually toe-to-head) and discuss the system I use when indulging this favorite pastime, and then I'll rummage around in my pack and talk about some of the other stuff I drag along.

  1. Toe: Good place to start. I bring moleskin, a soft pliant felt with sticky backing that can be cut from sheets and applied to blisters in the making. Skiing causes shoes to flex in strange ways the foot is not used to, and can rub where least expected. This is an ounce of prevention. It goes without saying that a periodic foot check is essential (Does anything feel warm or painful?) And put on that ounce before a blister arrives. This is also true of backpacking, but somehow removing shoes and socks trailside is a bit easier than removing skis, gaiters, boots, and socks in a snowbank. Skiing with blisters is no fun. I usually start with a pad on each of my big toes, which always seem to get tender. It's a lot easier to apply moleskin in the parking lot before you start than perched on a slippery log several miles up the trail.

  2. Foot: Obviously, warm socks are a must. I've been using some lightweight inner socks, with a fluffy heavier outer sock, for a while. As with all things in winter, the inner layer should be a material that "wicks" moisture away from the skin while still being gentle to the skin - soft and smooth. I've found that with a good inner layer, the outer layer can be about anything, as long as it insulates. Wilderness purists say "Wool", because it stays warm when wet. Some of the new man-made fibers are at least as good, in my opinion. The important thing is to have some insulation and to figure out your socks BEFORE you try on your boots!!

  3. Boots: The cross-country ski boots come in all styles from serious rugged hiking-style to a light-weight running style, used primarily for racing. I like the light-weight model, because of its greater flexibility and typically lower cut. It feels more comfortable over the long haul and tends to be both lighter and less stiff in the critical toe-crease, where the boot flexes as you push back for the kick. The best boots cover up the laces with a flap that "velcros" shut so that laces don't get snow-crusted - always a joy to untie. A better design would be to have a couple of light-weight, easily adjustable snap-links (protected from the snow with a similar flap) but I haven't seen anything like that. Choosing a size OVER THE SOCKS YOU PLAN TO WEAR is critical!

  4. Bindings: The connection of your toes to the skis, this is a critical link. Older systems used a set of three teeth, which fit into three holes in the soles of the boot. A clip came down and locked the front of the sole in place so that the whole arrangement didn't come unglued. This binding is the pits!! Those little holes get iced up and it's all over. The precise alignment of those holes is difficult, and the front of the binding tends to be wide, creating additional drag when skiing . . . just don't do it. Newer designs feature a small horizontal metal bar molded into the toe of the boot. It slips into a mounting easily and stays put. When the binding pops loose under severe torque (as it SHOULD) it is easy to lock back into place. The clip that mounts on the ski is a lot narrower and reduces the drag. Originally called racing bindings, these are now commonplace.

  5. Heel-locks (OK, Bindings II): These gizmos used to be a pin and notch arrangement that you screwed onto the heel of your boot and your ski. The idea was that when your foot was planted on the ski, you had lateral control as you do with down-hill skis. You could snow plow with the best of them. Problem was, frequently your heel came down with the pin off to the side, either stopping you from being able to plant your foot at all or, worse yet, planting it firmly OFF the ski. Now, most boots have a groove running down the sole that fits into a ridge on the ski binding. Same results, much better reliability. Bindings with these features are now common. If you think you might go down a hill, make sure your boot/binding has this feature.

  6. Skis: I've been using the Fischer Country Crowns since I started indulging in this sport 25 years ago. I'm on my second pair. I ditched the waxed skis for waxless, and never looked back. Give me the waxless any day - I've had it with dragging along six different flavors of wax, a scraper, and a cork, and then finding that you put the wrong wax on and you've glued a snow bank to each ski. A light coat of wax on the tips of waxless skis, along with a coating along the top, of the same wax used for downhill skiing works fine. The main idea is to keep the snow from sticking, and in some cases it is a lost cause. You travel from snow that has been sitting in bright sunshine to snow that is in deep shade. There is no way that one wax will be right for both conditions, and waxless skis just glide over that issue. Humble opinion, they are the only way to go. Ignore purists on this.

    They are making some wider shorter skis these days, and they look like a good idea. A bit better turning radius, less work on kick turns, and the same surface area. They tend to be shaped like an hour-glass, and I'd try a pair, but my skis haven't worn out yet (they're only twelve years old.)

  7. Poles: If you pick up a rental pair of skis nowadays, you will get some shiny graphite/tungsten/aluminum ski pole wonders that glisten in the sunlight. I bought some bamboo poles twenty five years ago. Hearing the siren call one season, I purchased a pair of g/t/a alloy supremo poles (I think they make the space shuttle toilet seat out of the same compound) - and shattered one the second time I took them out. I pulled out my bamboo poles, and went back to the track. They're still going strong. Try to find bamboo poles today! Ski poles should fit comfortably under your armpits when standing on the floor.

  8. Gaiters: These boot-top covers are not only a good idea, in deep snow they're indispensable. They fasten to your shoe in some clever manner, either in a stirrup strap or a shoe-lace clip - sometimes both. If you have the velcro flap covering your laces, the clip idea won't work, but a stirrup strap seems to work well in most instances. The only possible problem may be when dealing with the ridge/groove style of heel locks. I like velcro closures over zippers, particularly down here where snow tends to build up. I spent big bucks for Gore-tex Gaiters twenty five years ago and I think the Gore-tex was a waste of cash. Of course, after that length of time, I'd have probably gotten my money's worth if they'd been made of Platinum. Features to look for are ease in getting on and off wearing mittens, and how well they snug to the top of the boot.

  9. Ski pants: Bib overalls. The only way to go. I've had ski pants, wool and otherwise. I've found no way of avoiding the chilly butt-ful of snow, short of bibs. Wool bibs might be nice, but I've never seen them. Straps need to be the sort that don't have large buckles that turn to torture devices when wearing a pack. If the buckle is close to the bib, they should be OK. Pockets are extraordinarily useful. Reinforcement on the seat and knees is also rarely available but a great idea. As with all exercise clothing, nothing should constrict movement or bind.

    I find that the biggest problem that I have with ANY ski gear is how to get the heat out when you are working your way up a hill on a sunny slope. I had zippers put in on both legs, running down the outside. Works great, and they're easy to open and close, adjusting the ventilation with ease. I have considered using some open weave mesh on the inside so that open isn't completely exposed, but I like the current design quite well.

  10. Underwear: There are several good species out now, ranging from expedition strength poly-propylene to silk. I like the silk, mainly because it feels great next to the skin, doesn't tend to bind or bunch up, and is warm without being miserable on that sunny slope mentioned above. It's also easy to roll up the sleeves or legs when heat does become a big issue. It would be nice to have some type of system to keep them rolled up, but I haven't worked that out yet. Polypropylene also works well, and has excellent wicking properties. I usually wear a light polypropylene undershirt with long sleeves as my only shirt when skiing. The long sleeves are nice to roll down when you stop, and they can also prevent a nasty sunburn. When skiing, unlike the beach, sun comes at you from all directions.

  11. Jacket: As you can probably tell, I don't wear one, until I stop. Then, it's great to pull on a light, wind-proof shell with just enough lining to take the bite off any chill. It has to roll up small enough to fit in a pack. I have a fleece-lined shell that works perfectly.

  12. Gloves: I use a couple of lightweight polypropylene glove liners, switching them out when they get wet. They ease the chafing from ski poles and take the sting out of a fist-plant, just one of the ski maneuvers I've perfected over the years. I cover these light gloves with warmer gloves (for dexterity) and mittens (for warmth) when in camp.

  13. Scarf: I don't bother. One scarf I did have was a hollow tube that doubled as a hat - that might be a good idea.

  14. Hats: Essential. I bring along a lightweight cap for skiing, with a good bill. One of the French Foreign Legion models might be nice to eliminate the red-neck look. In the evening, something warm that covers the ears is critical. You have, I'm sure, heard the colossal amount of heat lost through the scalp. Keep your head warm and the rest will be cozy. Wool is good, but can be scratchy. Style is secondary.

  15. Sun Things: Baby, it is bright out there. As I've said, the sun comes at you from all directions. To add to the potential for severe sun-burn, you're usually at several thousand feet with a lot less atmosphere to protect you. The cool wind will disguise the heat of the burn until it is too late. Sunscreen should be max SPF (Sun Protection Factor) - any suntan you get out here is sure to be the kind you would NOT want to show off at the beach. Lip gloss with a good SPF is also advisable. Things dry out in the parched air of winter, when humidity is non-existent. A small bottle of moisturizer or Aloe might be a good addition to your pack.

    Sunglasses are critical. The Eskimos talk about being snow-blind, and it can be brutal. Wilderness survival books say that if you're stuck in the snow without a good pair of shades, take something you can cover your eyes with and cut two slits in it for visibility. A thin fabric one can see through would probably work as well. Eskimos used to make such "spectacles" out of ivory. Don't fry your corneas!

  16. Sweater/Coat: I've lumped these together because although I have a lovely thick down coat, I never bring it. It is bulky and heavy. The catchword for warmth is layering, and I use the outer shell I've described above, with a thin insulation, and stick a thick Ragg wool sweater underneath. So, to summarize, when I'm standing around in the evening, I have on my torso the following layers:

    Silk underwear (long-sleeved)
    Poly-propylene undershirt
    Thick wool sweater
    Outside insulated windproof shell


    If I get cold at that point, it's time to crawl into the sleeping bag and call it a night. One of our traditional activities in the late afternoon is to build a track of about a quarter mile around the base-camp. Then, if a chill starts to set in, you put on a headlight or, if the moon is out, just take off for a couple of laps. Quick warmth, the muscles get stretched again, and night-skiing is pure bliss, especially under a full moon.

  17. Sleeping: I have an internal frame tent that is light, inexpensive, and works fine. Expedition tents may be needed for shelter from high sustained winds and freezing rain when camping on exposed ridges, but I just don't do that. You can purchase long snow stakes, but threading a branch through the stake loops and burying it in the snow works well. If the wind isn't howling, just throwing your gear in may be a sufficient anchor. If it gets really bad, there is always the snow cave option.

    I have a down bag that is designed to provide comfort down to zero degrees. I usually climb in pretty fully dressed and shed layers as I start to roast. Sheddings go into a stuff sack which is then transformed into a pillow. Since you can mold your bed to your precise contours, sleeping in the wild can be quite comfortable. Some sheddings I just stick in the sleeping bag - putting on cold anything in the morning can be a shocking experience. I have even gone so far as to slip my boots into a stuff sack and slide them down by my feet inside the bag. Anything outside the bag is going to be stiff and frozen in the morning - plan accordingly.

    The cold always oozes from the ground, so a good sleeping pad is essential. I use a Thermarest self-inflating pad, which is one of the nicest and most comfortable for the weight. However, bring a patch kit. I had a leak one night, and things started getting cold in a hurry. I got up, broke bundles of dead dried twigs from some of the neighboring conifers, and built a noisy but warm bed out of them. This is a twist on the old pine-bough beds of western lore. Hemingway writes about them in "For Whom the Bell Tolls," and I remember being intrigued with the idea. However, breaking live branches is not exactly low-impact camping and should be saved for emergencies.

    I usually bring along a pair of high-top warm slippers for evening wear and to make toilet runs in the middle of the night. One can use a urine bottle to avoid the late-night trip to a nearby tree, depending on circumstances. I usually just grit my teeth and try to move quickly. The slippers should have a good non-skid sole and not collect too much snow if you happen to plant your foot off the trail to the "toilet tree".

  18. Eating: Yes, it's nice to have a good little cook stove, particularly for the morning "cuppa." However, I am not big on large gourmet meals requiring gallons of boiled water. For one thing, just boiling water in those conditions at that altitude is a pain. I generally pick up fruits and vegetables that require no heating - hard apples and carrots and celery - as well as dried fruit, granola bars, nuts, trail mix-type edibles, and of COURSE, Chocolate. I've been known to throw in small cans of meat and fish, usually the gourmet kind, just for a change of pace. Small pudding cups are good, and so are the cup-o-noodles types of meals that only need a little boiling water. I also like jerky as a supplement. I snack on this stuff throughout the day and a big evening meal just isn't necessary. I always return home with pounds of food, swearing I will never pack in as much the next time, but I always do.

    Note that none of this is the freeze-dried specialty backpacking food that costs so much and requires those gallons of boiling water. I do my shopping in the grocery store and it saves a lot of money, not to mention sparing me some of the dubious concoctions that the freeze-dried wizards produce.

  19. Packing it up: I use a large-capacity, internal frame pack for skiing. It holds more than I want to carry. It is especially important to keep the weight centered near your center of gravity, and to keep the soft stuff near your back. Avoid the loose floppy tie-on stuff that tends to fall off, get caught on branches, or just shifts around throwing you off balance. It should basically go inside, get cinched down well, or get left behind. I try to use several small stuff-sacks to sort clothes, food, and other gear out. Make sure to bring along a strong plastic bag for trash.

    I also carry along a small fanny-pack which converts to a small daypack for touring. It holds snacks, compass and a map, sunscreen, jacket, camera, and the other little odds and ends you might need on the trail. When carrying the BIG pack, I occasionally strap the daypack on in front. I'm so decadent, I even bring along a small portable CD (OK, I've moved up to MP3) player, and ski to the tunes. So much for being a purist. Something about skiing to the wailin' blues just feels good.

    The scenery this time of year is truly spectacular. I usually capture it on a small one-time use panoramic camera - something I would get over losing rather than a Nikon. Make sure to select a rather slow film, since the glare is usually substantial.

  20. Liquid Refreshment: I generally start out with several gallons of water in a spiffy contraption called a Camel-back, one of the water bladders with a tube and small mouthpiece. Slip it into the pack, run the tube over your shoulder, and you're traveling in style. The little tube hanging there reminds you periodically that it is a bad idea to get dehydrated up here. Water bottles are fine, just a little more difficult to manage. The holster arrangement is fine until you do a face-plant (another one of those classic maneuvers I practice now and again) and everything falls out in the snow. It's also one more thing hanging around your waist. Some backpacks come with a built-in water bottle, but I do like the drinking tube arrangement real well.

    The wine-filled Bota bag was a constant of my younger days of skiing. I still like wine, but PLEASE recognize the dangers of drinking out here and indulge cautiously. I also have opted for stronger spirits in recent years, not because I prefer them but they deliver more bang for the weight - and to be used DEFINITELY in moderation, of course. They also mix well with coffee for a brisk morning pick-me-up. Of course, all alcohol I bring along is for medicinal purposes only. This is absolutely no place to get drunk, and the alcohol will reduce the bodies tendency to shiver, which is one mechanism for staying warm. This is NO place to be incapacitated, or to saddle your camping partners with a BIG problem. To quote a candidate - "Just don't do it!"

    Now that I've displayed my hedonism adequately, I'll move right along to break another rule. I eat snow. I make sure it's from the middle of the snow bank, avoid the stuff that was on top for a while, and stay away from the yellow stuff, but I do scoop up nice fresh powder and suck on snow-cicles all day long. I've been told about mean little micro-organisms, and about reducing the core body temperature, and I just can't seem to help myself. Suffice to say that I haven't found it to be fatal.

    By day two, all the water that you brought chlorinated from a tap is now either consumed or frozen. At this point, you will have to boil either the water or some snow to have adequate drinking water. Boil some to keep the micro-biologists happy.

  21. Safety: Now that I have described how to break every rule, I'll talk about what I do to stay safe.

    Make sure someone knows where you plan to go, where you plan to park, and how long you plan to stay. You may even want to set up a check-in when you get out so that if you do have problems, rescue folks will know which direction to point the dogs.

    Avalanches: Stay away from avalanches, places were avalanches could occur, places were people are making loud noises which could trigger avalanches, places where people have discussed or even thought about avalanches. "Just don't do it!" In layman's terms, this means steep ridges where snow cornices (drifts, big drifts) have built up or places where it looks like massive amounts of snow have cleaned a path down a steep hill. If there is a steep hillside devoid of any vegetation - there's a clue. Wise folks carry avalanche shovels, little mini-snow shovels which can also be useful in building snow caves, etc. The hard core folks that ski gnarly crags bring along long avalanche probes and radio-transmitters. I just try to stay away from trouble.

    Hypothermia is the condition caused by a substantial lowering of the bodies core temperature. It can be fatal. Building a fire is rarely a good remedy, since exposing one's self to the fire usually means exposing a lot more to the elements. The traditional treatment is to strip, get into a sleeping bag, and ask a friend to join you, similarly unattired. This would obviously be more enjoyable with a GOOD friend, but may be necessary to avoid being a deceased acquaintance.

    Initial symptoms of hypothermia are shivering, slurring of speech, and stiffening of muscles. Death occurs when the core temperature drops below eighty degrees. To treat, obviously warm the body as quickly as possible. Remove wet, frozen, or tight clothing that might restrict blood flow. Provide hot liquids (but not alcohol) if the person is conscious.

    Frostbite is bad news. Keep track of things like earlobes and fingers. If they start to get tingly or numb, place then in a warm nook like the armpit. OK, this is hard to do with earlobes. Either find another warm nook or put on a nice warm hat. Don't be afraid to ask others how they're doing; do an extremity check. Often, there is no pain associated with frostbite, but pale glossy skin which feels numb is a first sign. If you see something that looks like it might snap off, get it warm, quickly! Do NOT rub the area. According to the Red Cross, stop warming the area as soon as it becomes flushed. Some swelling can be expected. If fingers or toes are involved, separate them with gauze pads. Clean and rinse the area, but do not break any blisters. Elevate the frozen extremities. Again, a warm drink might help. Warm the part in water that is warm but not hot (102-105 degrees.) If it comes down to it, stop and set up camp and get into a warm sleeping bag (see hypothermia.)

  22. A word about weather: The weather is usually clear and cold, or overcast and warmer. If a blizzard hits, hunker down and wait it out or, if you're close enough, head for the trailhead. This might be a particularly good idea if you're not driving a four-wheel drive. Of course, you WILL have chains. Look at the weather before a trip and don't be afraid to pull the plug. Light snow is rarely a problem, although it can be disorienting and make your landmarks a lot harder to spot. Fresh snow is best for skiing, so that compensates for any of these drawbacks.

  23. Maps and a Compass: Know your area well or be sure to have a good topographical map and compass, and know how to use them. It is often good to scope out an area you will being skiing into in advance so you can check out the lay of the land while you can still see the land. Trails vary from those that are clearly marked to those that are impossible to follow. Many trails which are marked by blazes six feet up a tree trunk will vanish when six-foot drifts build up. Take frequent stops to get your bearings, particularly at elevated locations. Like Hansel and Gretel, you should not count on being able to follow your own tracks back to camp - if the snow starts falling or someone comes behind you and creates a zillion tracks over and around yours, tracks, like bread crumbs, are worthless. If you really want to be sure, there are now Global Positioning units that read satellite signals and will point the way home. Still a little pricy, but I do want the wrist watch version. Dick Tracy, look out!

  24. Odds and Ends: I generally bring along a small first-aid kit. I also bring along a space blanket or two, just in case. I'll pack along a spare ski-tip, a clamp on deal that fits on the end of a broken ski and allows you to limp out of the wilderness. Hiking out through six-feet of snow would be the pits. I suspect you could create something like snowshoes with a lot of effort and ingenuity, but I'd rather ski, thanks.

    Here is a picture of my pal "snowcraver" after his binding blew out. He was able to "ski hop" out to the trailhead, but he took a LOT of ribbing. The trials of Job!


  25. I leave it to you to decide what to bring in your toilet kit. I try to keep it to a minimum, but toothbrush and kleenex (doubles as toilet paper) are essential. Consider the weight carefully, and make sure sun screen is included!

    Extra cord, a knife, thermometer, a candle and lighter are good items to toss into an emergency kit. Make sure the lighter has an adequate supply of fluid. Wax-coated "strike-anywhere" matches are a good idea, but keep them in a safe container.

    There are some chemical heaters that might be good to take along in case of emergency, or the kinds of hand-warmers hunters use to keep their trigger fingers flexible. I haven't bothered with this.

  26. Snow Caves: Shelter is always just beneath your feet. As any kid who grew up in the northern latitudes will tell you, building a snow cave doesn't require too much effort and can be a warm, cozy environment. There are some important words of caution, however. Make sure there is adequate ventilation! If you do plan to cook inside (not recommended) make sure that there is a large vent right above the stove and that this vent is at the highest point in the cave. Carbon Monoxide can get trapped in pockets in the ceiling and polish you off very efficiently. Typically, the entrance is a low crawl-space opening up into a room. Make sure it doesn't act as a wind scoop. Beds and seats can be carved into the sides. It is often easiest to just burrow into a big drift and even use some natural feature like a log or rock overhang to help supplement your efforts. However, you can build a dome up and scoop out the inside, or even build a mound up over your pack and then haul it out to create the hollow core. Even if you don't cook inside, be sure to punch in a few holes for oxygen flow. Never build a fire inside one of these creations.

    Making yourself at home in the wilderness, during what most would presume is the most inhospitable time of year, is something I truly enjoy. It combines exercise, appreciation of nature, a tranquility rarely achieved during the summer, and some of the most spectacular scenery available anywhere. Skiing in the wilderness takes a little preparation but the experience is truly worth it. Just don't tell the others I sent you!

Artwork

Part Art (mostly perspiration)

Sterling Bobbitt


New England's Ice-bound Dinghies


Media: watercolor


One of the "Jumbies" of Saint Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands


Media: traditional photograph & PaintShop Pro


Poetery



Sterling Bobbitt


(The latest from the Po - etery Fac - etory!)

English Furst

English wurst
English only
English mainly
Inglés, por favor!

British English
Canadian English
Indian English
American Indian?

Bilingual
Trilingual
Multilingual
Lingua Franca?

Latin roots
Latin shoots
Latin lover
Ig-pay Atin-lay!

Write good
Write well
Write better
Write bestest!

Write right
Right write
Write wrong
Write makes might.

Good grammar
Grammar school
Grammatically correct
Politically poisoned.

Matters not
How you say it.
In any language
Bigotry stinks!

"In Paris they simply stared when I spoke to them in French; I never did succeed in making those idiots understand their language."
Mark Twain (1835 - 1910)


Blackbird

Red mantle flashing in the morning sun,
Marks the marsh,
Feathers ruffled by the morning breeze.

Territorial imperative,
Old as time, new each Spring,
Cover for the mate, safety for the young.

From a twig outpost, guarding his dominion,
As pools reflect the rays piercing morning mist.
How nice to clearly know one’s place, one’s time.


Seed Struggle

Crack hull
Root down
Shoot up
Divide, stretch, grow.

Seek soil
Wanting water
Searching sun
Divide, stretch, grow.

Build bark
Wave leaves
Store sap
Divide, stretch, grow.

Trees, like relationships
Require work
A labor of love
Coming naturally
To those willing
To divide, stretch, grow.


Windchimes

Windchimes and whispers in the darkness
Lying in the waterbed.
Cool breeze eases body heat.
You grow a child, and
The apricots are falling.


Star

Shimmering in the cosmos
Sometimes the cold gray moon
Reflecting solar light
Will block the gleam
But its fires still burn as hot
Waiting for the chance
To delight once more.


Gift of the Heart

Politically incorrect and environmentally unsound,
You carved your initials in the bark of my heart.
Like the boys of the barrio, you tagged me.
Large fluorescent letters radiating my devotion.

So I visited the tattoo parlor, placed you in the pantheon,
Next to Mom, and a skull with roses,
Like a bovine, ear cropped and rump singed,
I belong to you now. Please be kind.


A Conservation Overheard

If the sand could speak,
What would it say
To the thundering surf
Caressing its bay?

Would it tell its secrets?
Share its rhyme?
Count the moments of
Eternal time?

How to steam an oyster?
Skin a fish?
Sand castle creation or
A lover's wish?

Would it describe the feel of
Children’s feet?
Running to share the latest
Shoreline treat?

Would it speak of the kite
Soaring over sea
Tugging on string and
Wishing to be free?

Would it speak of our love,
Our wishes and dreams?
Our plans and our hopes?
Our get rich schemes?

Would the surf answer back
With a crash and a roar?
A whispering hiss
As it swept clean the shore?


You . . . like a river

You . . . like a river
Flow into my life
Laughing over the falls
Gleaming in the moonlight
Flashing in the sun.

You . . . like a river
Give me joy
Sweep me along in a current
That clears the sandy shore
For the flowers of Spring.


Rythmn Child

I got the Rythmn,
I was born with the Rythmn,
I live with the Rythmn,
I love with the Rythmn,
I dance with the Rythmn,
It's life with a Rythmn,
Hope to die with the Rythmn,
I'm a Rythmn Child.


Taking Sides

Inside, outside,
Just how thick is your hide?
Up side, down side,
Flip 'em on their backside!

Poor side, rich side,
Pitch 'em in the ditch side.
Weak side, strong side,
Neither right nor wrong side.

Head side, tail side,
Which is weep and wail side?
Near side, far side,
Who will join the trailride?

Our side, your side,
Turning back the sea tide.
Glad you are on my side,
Aren't you?


Cactus Valentine

This cactus is prickly
It's covered quite thickly
A point at the end of each spine.

But the point it's implying
Is that I am trying
To have you for my Valentine!


 

Life is sweet & short & good - slurp it up!

I've had a number of these pesky poems sitting around the house for a while, and I thought I would share them with you. Hope you enjoyed.

Peace, and may the God of your preference bless you!


© Sterling Bobbitt


Purple Pulse 999

Snow Bound - Yosemite Yahoos

The following photos were taken in early 1998, on the last expedition. Again, it had to be done!   Yosemite Luminous Unbalanced Individual T...