Sterling Bobbitt
What's the reason perfectly sane people with warm soft beds leave such luxury to sleep in snow banks and ski through the mountains? I'll try to explain this aberration. I love being out in the wilderness, any time of the year. The mountain peaks, the forest and all of its critters, the rocky crags and brooks; this is the holiest of holies, my ultimate place of worship. But . . . in the summer, there are bugs, and dust, and muddy trails, and it's hot and just not terribly pleasant to drag a pack around. In winter, all of this changes. The days are radiant, with the reflection off the snow doubling the dazzle. The peaks are draped in snow, revealing the subtle folds of the terrain. The bugs buzz off, the dust is hidden, the mud freezes and is buried under a thick blanket of snow and ice. The air is clear, the nights luminous with stars, the stillness a physical presence. Traveling cross-country in summer is work - in the winter you can glide across the terrain. There is no better time of the year to explore the high Sierras, but - Shhhh! Don't tell anyone! Latest expedition photos | Table of Contents |
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A friend asked recently "What does it take to ski off into the wilderness for a weekend?" Contrary to popular belief, nerves of steel are not a pre-requisite. But some things are. I've decided to go from head-to-toe (actually toe-to-head) and discuss the system I use when indulging this favorite pastime, and then I'll rummage around in my pack and talk about some of the other stuff I drag along.
- Toe: Good place to start. I bring moleskin, a soft pliant felt with sticky backing that can be cut from sheets and applied to blisters in the making. Skiing causes shoes to flex in strange ways the foot is not used to, and can rub where least expected. This is an ounce of prevention. It goes without saying that a periodic foot check is essential (Does anything feel warm or painful?) And put on that ounce before a blister arrives. This is also true of backpacking, but somehow removing shoes and socks trailside is a bit easier than removing skis, gaiters, boots, and socks in a snowbank. Skiing with blisters is no fun. I usually start with a pad on each of my big toes, which always seem to get tender. It's a lot easier to apply moleskin in the parking lot before you start than perched on a slippery log several miles up the trail.
- Foot: Obviously, warm socks are a must. I've been using some lightweight inner socks, with a fluffy heavier outer sock, for a while. As with all things in winter, the inner layer should be a material that "wicks" moisture away from the skin while still being gentle to the skin - soft and smooth. I've found that with a good inner layer, the outer layer can be about anything, as long as it insulates. Wilderness purists say "Wool", because it stays warm when wet. Some of the new man-made fibers are at least as good, in my opinion. The important thing is to have some insulation and to figure out your socks BEFORE you try on your boots!!
- Boots: The cross-country ski boots come in all styles from serious rugged hiking-style to a light-weight running style, used primarily for racing. I like the light-weight model, because of its greater flexibility and typically lower cut. It feels more comfortable over the long haul and tends to be both lighter and less stiff in the critical toe-crease, where the boot flexes as you push back for the kick. The best boots cover up the laces with a flap that "velcros" shut so that laces don't get snow-crusted - always a joy to untie. A better design would be to have a couple of light-weight, easily adjustable snap-links (protected from the snow with a similar flap) but I haven't seen anything like that. Choosing a size OVER THE SOCKS YOU PLAN TO WEAR is critical!
- Bindings: The connection of your toes to the skis, this is a critical link. Older systems used a set of three teeth, which fit into three holes in the soles of the boot. A clip came down and locked the front of the sole in place so that the whole arrangement didn't come unglued. This binding is the pits!! Those little holes get iced up and it's all over. The precise alignment of those holes is difficult, and the front of the binding tends to be wide, creating additional drag when skiing . . . just don't do it. Newer designs feature a small horizontal metal bar molded into the toe of the boot. It slips into a mounting easily and stays put. When the binding pops loose under severe torque (as it SHOULD) it is easy to lock back into place. The clip that mounts on the ski is a lot narrower and reduces the drag. Originally called racing bindings, these are now commonplace.
- Heel-locks (OK, Bindings II): These gizmos used to be a pin and notch arrangement that you screwed onto the heel of your boot and your ski. The idea was that when your foot was planted on the ski, you had lateral control as you do with down-hill skis. You could snow plow with the best of them. Problem was, frequently your heel came down with the pin off to the side, either stopping you from being able to plant your foot at all or, worse yet, planting it firmly OFF the ski. Now, most boots have a groove running down the sole that fits into a ridge on the ski binding. Same results, much better reliability. Bindings with these features are now common. If you think you might go down a hill, make sure your boot/binding has this feature.
- Skis: I've been using the Fischer Country Crowns since I started indulging in this sport 25 years ago. I'm on my second pair. I ditched the waxed skis for waxless, and never looked back. Give me the waxless any day - I've had it with dragging along six different flavors of wax, a scraper, and a cork, and then finding that you put the wrong wax on and you've glued a snow bank to each ski. A light coat of wax on the tips of waxless skis, along with a coating along the top, of the same wax used for downhill skiing works fine. The main idea is to keep the snow from sticking, and in some cases it is a lost cause. You travel from snow that has been sitting in bright sunshine to snow that is in deep shade. There is no way that one wax will be right for both conditions, and waxless skis just glide over that issue. Humble opinion, they are the only way to go. Ignore purists on this.
They are making some wider shorter skis these days, and they look like a good idea. A bit better turning radius, less work on kick turns, and the same surface area. They tend to be shaped like an hour-glass, and I'd try a pair, but my skis haven't worn out yet (they're only twelve years old.)- Poles: If you pick up a rental pair of skis nowadays, you will get some shiny graphite/tungsten/aluminum ski pole wonders that glisten in the sunlight. I bought some bamboo poles twenty five years ago. Hearing the siren call one season, I purchased a pair of g/t/a alloy supremo poles (I think they make the space shuttle toilet seat out of the same compound) - and shattered one the second time I took them out. I pulled out my bamboo poles, and went back to the track. They're still going strong. Try to find bamboo poles today! Ski poles should fit comfortably under your armpits when standing on the floor.
- Gaiters: These boot-top covers are not only a good idea, in deep snow they're indispensable. They fasten to your shoe in some clever manner, either in a stirrup strap or a shoe-lace clip - sometimes both. If you have the velcro flap covering your laces, the clip idea won't work, but a stirrup strap seems to work well in most instances. The only possible problem may be when dealing with the ridge/groove style of heel locks. I like velcro closures over zippers, particularly down here where snow tends to build up. I spent big bucks for Gore-tex Gaiters twenty five years ago and I think the Gore-tex was a waste of cash. Of course, after that length of time, I'd have probably gotten my money's worth if they'd been made of Platinum. Features to look for are ease in getting on and off wearing mittens, and how well they snug to the top of the boot.
- Ski pants: Bib overalls. The only way to go. I've had ski pants, wool and otherwise. I've found no way of avoiding the chilly butt-ful of snow, short of bibs. Wool bibs might be nice, but I've never seen them. Straps need to be the sort that don't have large buckles that turn to torture devices when wearing a pack. If the buckle is close to the bib, they should be OK. Pockets are extraordinarily useful. Reinforcement on the seat and knees is also rarely available but a great idea. As with all exercise clothing, nothing should constrict movement or bind.
I find that the biggest problem that I have with ANY ski gear is how to get the heat out when you are working your way up a hill on a sunny slope. I had zippers put in on both legs, running down the outside. Works great, and they're easy to open and close, adjusting the ventilation with ease. I have considered using some open weave mesh on the inside so that open isn't completely exposed, but I like the current design quite well.- Underwear: There are several good species out now, ranging from expedition strength poly-propylene to silk. I like the silk, mainly because it feels great next to the skin, doesn't tend to bind or bunch up, and is warm without being miserable on that sunny slope mentioned above. It's also easy to roll up the sleeves or legs when heat does become a big issue. It would be nice to have some type of system to keep them rolled up, but I haven't worked that out yet. Polypropylene also works well, and has excellent wicking properties. I usually wear a light polypropylene undershirt with long sleeves as my only shirt when skiing. The long sleeves are nice to roll down when you stop, and they can also prevent a nasty sunburn. When skiing, unlike the beach, sun comes at you from all directions.
- Jacket: As you can probably tell, I don't wear one, until I stop. Then, it's great to pull on a light, wind-proof shell with just enough lining to take the bite off any chill. It has to roll up small enough to fit in a pack. I have a fleece-lined shell that works perfectly.
- Gloves: I use a couple of lightweight polypropylene glove liners, switching them out when they get wet. They ease the chafing from ski poles and take the sting out of a fist-plant, just one of the ski maneuvers I've perfected over the years. I cover these light gloves with warmer gloves (for dexterity) and mittens (for warmth) when in camp.
- Scarf: I don't bother. One scarf I did have was a hollow tube that doubled as a hat - that might be a good idea.
- Hats: Essential. I bring along a lightweight cap for skiing, with a good bill. One of the French Foreign Legion models might be nice to eliminate the red-neck look. In the evening, something warm that covers the ears is critical. You have, I'm sure, heard the colossal amount of heat lost through the scalp. Keep your head warm and the rest will be cozy. Wool is good, but can be scratchy. Style is secondary.
- Sun Things: Baby, it is bright out there. As I've said, the sun comes at you from all directions. To add to the potential for severe sun-burn, you're usually at several thousand feet with a lot less atmosphere to protect you. The cool wind will disguise the heat of the burn until it is too late. Sunscreen should be max SPF (Sun Protection Factor) - any suntan you get out here is sure to be the kind you would NOT want to show off at the beach. Lip gloss with a good SPF is also advisable. Things dry out in the parched air of winter, when humidity is non-existent. A small bottle of moisturizer or Aloe might be a good addition to your pack.
Sunglasses are critical. The Eskimos talk about being snow-blind, and it can be brutal. Wilderness survival books say that if you're stuck in the snow without a good pair of shades, take something you can cover your eyes with and cut two slits in it for visibility. A thin fabric one can see through would probably work as well. Eskimos used to make such "spectacles" out of ivory. Don't fry your corneas!- Sweater/Coat: I've lumped these together because although I have a lovely thick down coat, I never bring it. It is bulky and heavy. The catchword for warmth is layering, and I use the outer shell I've described above, with a thin insulation, and stick a thick Ragg wool sweater underneath. So, to summarize, when I'm standing around in the evening, I have on my torso the following layers:
Silk underwear (long-sleeved)
Poly-propylene undershirt
Thick wool sweater
Outside insulated windproof shell
If I get cold at that point, it's time to crawl into the sleeping bag and call it a night. One of our traditional activities in the late afternoon is to build a track of about a quarter mile around the base-camp. Then, if a chill starts to set in, you put on a headlight or, if the moon is out, just take off for a couple of laps. Quick warmth, the muscles get stretched again, and night-skiing is pure bliss, especially under a full moon.- Sleeping: I have an internal frame tent that is light, inexpensive, and works fine. Expedition tents may be needed for shelter from high sustained winds and freezing rain when camping on exposed ridges, but I just don't do that. You can purchase long snow stakes, but threading a branch through the stake loops and burying it in the snow works well. If the wind isn't howling, just throwing your gear in may be a sufficient anchor. If it gets really bad, there is always the snow cave option.
I have a down bag that is designed to provide comfort down to zero degrees. I usually climb in pretty fully dressed and shed layers as I start to roast. Sheddings go into a stuff sack which is then transformed into a pillow. Since you can mold your bed to your precise contours, sleeping in the wild can be quite comfortable. Some sheddings I just stick in the sleeping bag - putting on cold anything in the morning can be a shocking experience. I have even gone so far as to slip my boots into a stuff sack and slide them down by my feet inside the bag. Anything outside the bag is going to be stiff and frozen in the morning - plan accordingly.
The cold always oozes from the ground, so a good sleeping pad is essential. I use a Thermarest self-inflating pad, which is one of the nicest and most comfortable for the weight. However, bring a patch kit. I had a leak one night, and things started getting cold in a hurry. I got up, broke bundles of dead dried twigs from some of the neighboring conifers, and built a noisy but warm bed out of them. This is a twist on the old pine-bough beds of western lore. Hemingway writes about them in "For Whom the Bell Tolls," and I remember being intrigued with the idea. However, breaking live branches is not exactly low-impact camping and should be saved for emergencies.
I usually bring along a pair of high-top warm slippers for evening wear and to make toilet runs in the middle of the night. One can use a urine bottle to avoid the late-night trip to a nearby tree, depending on circumstances. I usually just grit my teeth and try to move quickly. The slippers should have a good non-skid sole and not collect too much snow if you happen to plant your foot off the trail to the "toilet tree".- Eating: Yes, it's nice to have a good little cook stove, particularly for the morning "cuppa." However, I am not big on large gourmet meals requiring gallons of boiled water. For one thing, just boiling water in those conditions at that altitude is a pain. I generally pick up fruits and vegetables that require no heating - hard apples and carrots and celery - as well as dried fruit, granola bars, nuts, trail mix-type edibles, and of COURSE, Chocolate. I've been known to throw in small cans of meat and fish, usually the gourmet kind, just for a change of pace. Small pudding cups are good, and so are the cup-o-noodles types of meals that only need a little boiling water. I also like jerky as a supplement. I snack on this stuff throughout the day and a big evening meal just isn't necessary. I always return home with pounds of food, swearing I will never pack in as much the next time, but I always do.
Note that none of this is the freeze-dried specialty backpacking food that costs so much and requires those gallons of boiling water. I do my shopping in the grocery store and it saves a lot of money, not to mention sparing me some of the dubious concoctions that the freeze-dried wizards produce.- Packing it up: I use a large-capacity, internal frame pack for skiing. It holds more than I want to carry. It is especially important to keep the weight centered near your center of gravity, and to keep the soft stuff near your back. Avoid the loose floppy tie-on stuff that tends to fall off, get caught on branches, or just shifts around throwing you off balance. It should basically go inside, get cinched down well, or get left behind. I try to use several small stuff-sacks to sort clothes, food, and other gear out. Make sure to bring along a strong plastic bag for trash.
I also carry along a small fanny-pack which converts to a small daypack for touring. It holds snacks, compass and a map, sunscreen, jacket, camera, and the other little odds and ends you might need on the trail. When carrying the BIG pack, I occasionally strap the daypack on in front. I'm so decadent, I even bring along a small portable CD (OK, I've moved up to MP3) player, and ski to the tunes. So much for being a purist. Something about skiing to the wailin' blues just feels good.
The scenery this time of year is truly spectacular. I usually capture it on a small one-time use panoramic camera - something I would get over losing rather than a Nikon. Make sure to select a rather slow film, since the glare is usually substantial.- Liquid Refreshment: I generally start out with several gallons of water in a spiffy contraption called a Camel-back, one of the water bladders with a tube and small mouthpiece. Slip it into the pack, run the tube over your shoulder, and you're traveling in style. The little tube hanging there reminds you periodically that it is a bad idea to get dehydrated up here. Water bottles are fine, just a little more difficult to manage. The holster arrangement is fine until you do a face-plant (another one of those classic maneuvers I practice now and again) and everything falls out in the snow. It's also one more thing hanging around your waist. Some backpacks come with a built-in water bottle, but I do like the drinking tube arrangement real well.
The wine-filled Bota bag was a constant of my younger days of skiing. I still like wine, but PLEASE recognize the dangers of drinking out here and indulge cautiously. I also have opted for stronger spirits in recent years, not because I prefer them but they deliver more bang for the weight - and to be used DEFINITELY in moderation, of course. They also mix well with coffee for a brisk morning pick-me-up. Of course, all alcohol I bring along is for medicinal purposes only. This is absolutely no place to get drunk, and the alcohol will reduce the bodies tendency to shiver, which is one mechanism for staying warm. This is NO place to be incapacitated, or to saddle your camping partners with a BIG problem. To quote a candidate - "Just don't do it!"
Now that I've displayed my hedonism adequately, I'll move right along to break another rule. I eat snow. I make sure it's from the middle of the snow bank, avoid the stuff that was on top for a while, and stay away from the yellow stuff, but I do scoop up nice fresh powder and suck on snow-cicles all day long. I've been told about mean little micro-organisms, and about reducing the core body temperature, and I just can't seem to help myself. Suffice to say that I haven't found it to be fatal.
By day two, all the water that you brought chlorinated from a tap is now either consumed or frozen. At this point, you will have to boil either the water or some snow to have adequate drinking water. Boil some to keep the micro-biologists happy.- Safety: Now that I have described how to break every rule, I'll talk about what I do to stay safe.
someone knows where you plan to go, where you plan to park, and how long you plan to stay. You may even want to set up a check-in when you get out so that if you do have problems, rescue folks will know which direction to point the dogs.
Avalanches: Stay away from avalanches, places were avalanches could occur, places were people are making loud noises which could trigger avalanches, places where people have discussed or even thought about avalanches. "Just don't do it!" In layman's terms, this means steep ridges where snow cornices (drifts, big drifts) have built up or places where it looks like massive amounts of snow have cleaned a path down a steep hill. If there is a steep hillside devoid of any vegetation - there's a clue. Wise folks carry avalanche shovels, little mini-snow shovels which can also be useful in building snow caves, etc. The hard core folks that ski gnarly crags bring along long avalanche probes and radio-transmitters. I just try to stay away from trouble.
Hypothermia is the condition caused by a substantial lowering of the bodies core temperature. It can be fatal. Building a fire is rarely a good remedy, since exposing one's self to the fire usually means exposing a lot more to the elements. The traditional treatment is to strip, get into a sleeping bag, and ask a friend to join you, similarly unattired. This would obviously be more enjoyable with a GOOD friend, but may be necessary to avoid being a deceased acquaintance.
Initial symptoms of hypothermia are shivering, slurring of speech, and stiffening of muscles. Death occurs when the core temperature drops below eighty degrees. To treat, obviously warm the body as quickly as possible. Remove wet, frozen, or tight clothing that might restrict blood flow. Provide hot liquids (but not alcohol) if the person is conscious.
Frostbite is bad news. Keep track of things like earlobes and fingers. If they start to get tingly or numb, place then in a warm nook like the armpit. OK, this is hard to do with earlobes. Either find another warm nook or put on a nice warm hat. Don't be afraid to ask others how they're doing; do an extremity check. Often, there is no pain associated with frostbite, but pale glossy skin which feels numb is a first sign. If you see something that looks like it might snap off, get it warm, quickly! Do NOT rub the area. According to the Red Cross, stop warming the area as soon as it becomes flushed. Some swelling can be expected. If fingers or toes are involved, separate them with gauze pads. Clean and rinse the area, but do not break any blisters. Elevate the frozen extremities. Again, a warm drink might help. Warm the part in water that is warm but not hot (102-105 degrees.) If it comes down to it, stop and set up camp and get into a warm sleeping bag (see hypothermia.)- A word about weather: The weather is usually clear and cold, or overcast and warmer. If a blizzard hits, hunker down and wait it out or, if you're close enough, head for the trailhead. This might be a particularly good idea if you're not driving a four-wheel drive. Of course, you WILL have chains. Look at the weather before a trip and don't be afraid to pull the plug. Light snow is rarely a problem, although it can be disorienting and make your landmarks a lot harder to spot. Fresh snow is best for skiing, so that compensates for any of these drawbacks.
- Maps and a Compass: Know your area well or be sure to have a good topographical map and compass, and know how to use them. It is often good to scope out an area you will being skiing into in advance so you can check out the lay of the land while you can still see the land. Trails vary from those that are clearly marked to those that are impossible to follow. Many trails which are marked by blazes six feet up a tree trunk will vanish when six-foot drifts build up. Take frequent stops to get your bearings, particularly at elevated locations. Like Hansel and Gretel, you should not count on being able to follow your own tracks back to camp - if the snow starts falling or someone comes behind you and creates a zillion tracks over and around yours, tracks, like bread crumbs, are worthless. If you really want to be sure, there are now Global Positioning units that read satellite signals and will point the way home. Still a little pricy, but I do want the wrist watch version. Dick Tracy, look out!
- Odds and Ends: I generally bring along a small first-aid kit. I also bring along a space blanket or two, just in case. I'll pack along a spare ski-tip, a clamp on deal that fits on the end of a broken ski and allows you to limp out of the wilderness. Hiking out through six-feet of snow would be the pits. I suspect you could create something like snowshoes with a lot of effort and ingenuity, but I'd rather ski, thanks.
Here is a picture of my pal "snowcraver" after his binding blew out. He was able to "ski hop" out to the trailhead, but he took a LOT of ribbing. The trials of Job!- I leave it to you to decide what to bring in your toilet kit. I try to keep it to a minimum, but toothbrush and kleenex (doubles as toilet paper) are essential. Consider the weight carefully, and make sure sun screen is included!
Extra cord, a knife, thermometer, a candle and lighter are good items to toss into an emergency kit. Make sure the lighter has an adequate supply of fluid. Wax-coated "strike-anywhere" matches are a good idea, but keep them in a safe container.
There are some chemical heaters that might be good to take along in case of emergency, or the kinds of hand-warmers hunters use to keep their trigger fingers flexible. I haven't bothered with this.- Snow Caves: Shelter is always just beneath your feet. As any kid who grew up in the northern latitudes will tell you, building a snow cave doesn't require too much effort and can be a warm, cozy environment. There are some important words of caution, however. Make sure there is adequate ventilation! If you do plan to cook inside (not recommended) make sure that there is a large vent right above the stove and that this vent is at the highest point in the cave. Carbon Monoxide can get trapped in pockets in the ceiling and polish you off very efficiently. Typically, the entrance is a low crawl-space opening up into a room. Make sure it doesn't act as a wind scoop. Beds and seats can be carved into the sides. It is often easiest to just burrow into a big drift and even use some natural feature like a log or rock overhang to help supplement your efforts. However, you can build a dome up and scoop out the inside, or even build a mound up over your pack and then haul it out to create the hollow core. Even if you don't cook inside, be sure to punch in a few holes for oxygen flow. Never build a fire inside one of these creations.
Making yourself at home in the wilderness, during what most would presume is the most inhospitable time of year, is something I truly enjoy. It combines exercise, appreciation of nature, a tranquility rarely achieved during the summer, and some of the most spectacular scenery available anywhere. Skiing in the wilderness takes a little preparation but the experience is truly worth it. Just don't tell the others I sent you!
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